Why Care Matters
A handwoven Banarasi saree or a Pashmina shawl is not simply a garment — it is hours of skilled labour, rare raw material, and living craft tradition. The difference between a piece that lasts one season and one that becomes a heirloom is almost entirely in how it is cared for. These guidelines will help you protect what you've invested in.
Silk: The Queen of Fabrics
Pure silk — whether Kanjivaram, Banarasi, or Mysore — is protein-based and responds poorly to heat, agitation, and alkaline detergents.
- Washing: Hand-wash in cold water with a teaspoon of mild, pH-neutral shampoo. Submerge, gently agitate for 2–3 minutes, and rinse thoroughly. Never twist or wring.
- Drying: Roll in a clean cotton towel to remove excess water, then lay flat on a dry towel away from direct sunlight. Silk weakens when wet — never hang it to dry while damp.
- Ironing: Iron on the reverse side while slightly damp, on the lowest silk setting. Never use steam directly on silk — it can leave permanent water marks.
- Storage: Wrap in unbleached muslin or cotton and store flat. Avoid plastic bags, which trap moisture and can yellow silk over time. Refold along different lines each season to prevent permanent crease damage.
Pashmina and Fine Wools
Pashmina and other fine wools (shahtoosh, merino) are delicate protein fibres that can felt irreversibly if exposed to heat and agitation.
- Washing: Hand-wash in cool water with a very small amount of baby shampoo or specialist wool wash. Support the garment fully in the water — never lift it by one end while wet, as the weight of the water will stretch the fibres.
- Drying: Press gently in a towel (do not twist), reshape, and lay flat on a fresh towel to dry. Never tumble dry.
- Pilling: Fine wools pill with friction — a natural result of wear, not a sign of poor quality. Remove pills gently with a cashmere comb or fabric shaver on the lowest setting.
- Storage: Fold (never hang — hanging stretches fine knitwear permanently) and store in a breathable bag with cedar or lavender to deter moths. Check periodically during long storage.
Heavily Embroidered Pieces
Garments with Zardozi, Gota Patti, Aari, or Sozni embroidery require special handling to protect the embellishment as much as the fabric.
- Dry cleaning: For heavily worked pieces, professional dry cleaning is the safest option. Brief the cleaner specifically about the embellishment type and ask them not to press over it.
- Spot cleaning: For minor stains, blot (never rub) with a clean damp cloth and a tiny amount of mild detergent. Work from the outside of the stain inward.
- Storage: Fold embroidered surfaces inward and pad heavily worked areas with acid-free tissue paper to prevent the embellishment from crushing or snagging adjacent fabric.
Chiffon and Georgette
These lightweight, sheer fabrics are made from tightly twisted threads — which gives them their characteristic drape but also makes them prone to snagging.
- Washing: Hand-wash in cool water. Avoid any agitation that could snag threads. Rinse gently and roll in a towel to remove water.
- Ironing: Use the lowest heat setting on the reverse side. Chiffon scorches easily — always test on a hidden area first.
- Storage: Hang loosely on padded hangers, or fold in tissue paper. Avoid compression, which permanently crushes the fabric's natural drape.
General Principles
A few rules apply across all luxury fabrics:
- Air garments after wearing before storing — body moisture needs to dissipate before folding
- Rotate pieces — wearing the same garment every week accelerates wear
- Address stains immediately; the longer a stain sets, the harder it becomes to remove
- Invest in proper storage: acid-free tissue, breathable muslin bags, and cedar blocks are inexpensive insurance for expensive clothing
With the right care, a well-made Indian luxury garment does not merely survive the years — it deepens in beauty, carrying the warmth of memory alongside the richness of the craft.